Method of shoe construction using a welt and foxing strip



J. GLASSMAN a P N OHM n C mm w NM OF... C P Ew O w w F O H D WA m March 30, 1954 m T. m w.

Patented Mar. 30, 1954 UNITED STATES METHOD OF SHOE CONSTRUCTION USING A WELT AND FOXING STRIP Joel Glassman, Brookline, Mass. Application September 15, 1951, Serial No. 246,751 7 Claims. (01. 36-17) The present invention relates to shoe construction and more particularly to a construction involving a so called foxing strip sewed to the upper or around the sole periphery of the shoe.

One of the objects of the present invention is to combine the foxing strip with a welt-like element in such a manner that the welt, foXi-ng strip and its filler may be pre-asseznbled and stitched to the upper prior to attaching the sole.

Another purpose of the present invention is to construct a shoe in which the upper is secured only to the foxing or binding strip and in which the welt strip which is secured to the foxing or binding strip in the manner which will be hereafter described is secured directly to the sole by stitching or by cementing or by both.

A further feature of the present invention is that the foxing or binding strip is stitched in face to face relation with the upper, first by a through stitching through the inner filler of the binding strip, the inner turned edge of the cover of the binding strip and the upper and again through the filler and the lower marginal edge of the upper but not through the inturned face of the binding strip. In this manner a more efiicient joint can be made between the upper and the binding strip.

In place of the second stitching means, other binding means such as cement may be used, although stitching is preferable.

A further feature of the presentinvention is that the stitching through the welt and one of the soles, which may be an outer or intermediate sole, need not be extremely close to the binding edge but may be the usual distance away without causing any lcoseness in the shoe assembly as a whole.

While in the specification, the drawings show chiefly a flat or semi-flat style shoe, the same construction may be ap lied to the wedge type with wedges built up inside or on the outside of the s cc.

Without further describing the features and advantages of the present invention, the invention will be described in connection with the drawings illustrating an embodiment of the method of construction, in which:

Figure 1 shows a detail of the foxing or binding strip prior to attachment of the upper.

Figure 2 shows a lore-formed upper with the binding strip attached thereto.

Figure 3 shows a shoe on a cemented thereto.

Figure 4 shows a sole attached to the welting strip, and,

last with the sole Figure 5 shows an enlarged detail of construction.

Figure l'shows a welting strip i, a foxing or binding strip 2 and a filler 3 for the binding strip. The filler 3 is stitched to the binding or foxing strip 2 by a line of stitching which goes from the inner face of the foxing strip-through the outer face of the filler strip. By the inner face is meant the face which faces inwardly of the shoe. The welting strip I is stitched by a line of stitching to the foxing strip 2 from the inner face of the welt through to the inner face foxing strip, so that in eifect the outer face of the foxing strip and the outer face of the welt are in face to face relation with each other.

In Figure 2 the upper face is shown attached to the foxing strip 2 by a through stitching and the filler is also stitched to the upper around the lower periphery by a through stitching 8.

By stitching the filler and outer cover 2 of the foxing strip in this manner and by stitching the filler to thefoxing' strip as has been explained; a strong shoe construction will be effected and at the same time its appearance will be greatly enhanced since the foxing strip is neatly secured around the lower peripheryof the upper of the shoe.

When the sole element-is secured to the shoe, this may be done, first by cementing a sole 9 to the face of the welting element l and then by stitching the welt down as indicated at '10 in Figure 4. 1

The upper B may be pre-formed and can if dedesired be made of a single or a plurality of elements- Further the lower-periphery of the upper 6 is carried down to the end on the filler of the inside of the foxing strip but'the inner cover of the foxing stripis short of the lower edge of the filler so that'thelower line of stitching of the filler does not pass through the cover of the filler but goes directly through to the lower margin of the upper of the shoe.

A further advantage of this construction is that as indicated in Figures 2, 3 and 4, the foxing strip cover 2 at its base is bent inward under the lower edge of the filler so that the stitching 5 in its final position extends normally in an up and down direction when the shoe is flat. This entire construction provides a simple, well formed joint of the upper and stitched welt and results in a sturdy well formed and shaped shoe which will hold its shape.

Having now described my invention, I claim:

1. A method of shoe construction employing in combination a foxing strip and welt strip which consists first in providing a foxing strip and welt stitched in face to face relation along the lower edge of the welt, then stitching the foxing strip in flat facin relation to the upper of the shoe along a line just below the edge where the foxing strip is to be turned, turning the foxing strip downward and bending the welt outward until the edge of the foxing strip and welt to the stitching margin is turned inward to the shoe, then stitching the welt nearer its outer margin to a sole of the shoe.

2. A method of shoe construction employing in combination a foxing strip having a fabric filler strip and a welt strip which consists first in providing the welt strip and foxing strip, and the filler strip stitched with separate lines of stitching and foxing stri in fiat face to face relation with the filler strip projecting from one side of the edge of the foxing strip and the welt flush with the edge of the foxing strip on the other side, then stitching the foxing strip in fiat facing relation to the upper of the shoe, along a line just below the edge where the foxing strip is to be turned, turning the foxing strip downward and bending the welt outward until the edge of the foxing strip and welt to the stitching margin is turned inward to the shoe, then stitching the welt nearer its outer margin to a sole of the shoe.

3. A method of shoe construction employing in combination a foxing strip having a fabric filler strip and a welt strip, which consists first in providin the welt strip and foxing strip, and the filler strip stitched with separate lines of stitching and foxing strip in flat face to face relation with the filler stri projecting from one side of the edge of the foxing strip and the welt flush with the edge of the foxing strip on the other side, then stitching the foxing strip in flat facing relation to the upper of the shoe with one row of stitching passing through the filler strip, the foxing strip and the upper just below the edge when the foxing strip is to be turned and with a second row of stitching passing through the filler and the upper only nearer the outer free edge of the filler strip, turnin the foxing strip downward and bending the welt outward until the edge of the foxing strip and welt to the stitching margin is turned inward to the shoe, then stitching the welt nearer its outer margin to a sole of the shoe.

4. In a welt type shoe construction, an upper, a foxing strip, welt and filler strip having all three elements in face to face stitched relationship with the filler strip projecting beyond the side edge of the foxing strip at one side and the welt edge flush with the foxing strip at its other side edge, a line of stitching securing the foxing strip to the upper through the filler just below the top edge of the filler covered by said foxin strip, the flush edge of said welt and foxing strip having an inward bend extending under the free edge of said filler with the under face of the welt flush with a sole, and a sole element stitched down to said welt outward of said inward bend.

5. In a welt type shoe construction, an upper, a foxing strip, welt and filler strip having all three elements in face to face stitched relationship with the filler strip projecting beyond the side edge of the foxing strip at one side and the welt edge flush with the foxing strip at its other side edge, a line of stitching securing the foxing strip to the upper through the filler just below the top edge of the filler covered by said foxing strip and a second row of stitching passing through the filler strip and upper near the bottom edge of the upper, the flush edge of said welt and foxing strip having an inward bend extending under the free edge of said filler with the under face of the welt flush with a sole, and a sole element stitched down to said welt outward of said inward bend.

6. In a welt type shoe construction, an upper, a foxing strip, welt and filler strip having all three elements in face to face stitched relationship with the filler strip projecting beyond the side edge of the foxing stri at one side and the welt edge flush with the foxing strip at its other side edge, a line of stitching securing the foxing strip to the upper through the filler just below the top edge of the filler covered by said foxing strip, the flush edge of said welt and foxing strip having an inward bend extending under the free edge of said filler with the under face of the welt flush with a sole, and a sole element cemented and stitched down to said welt outward of said inward bend.

7. In a Welt shoe type construction, an upper, a foxing strip, welt and filler strip having all three elements in face to f ace stitched relationship with the filler strip projecting beyond the side edge of the foxing strip at one side and the welt edge flush with the foxing strip at its other side edge, a line of stitching securing the foxing strip to the upper through the filler just below the top edge of the filler covered by said foxing strip, the flush edge of said welt and foxin strip having an inward bend extending under the free edge of said filler and upper with the under face of the welt flush with a sole, and a sole element stitched down to said welt outward of said inward bend.

JOEL GLASSMAN.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 152,067 Brooks June 16, 1874 496,822 Drey May 2, 1893 1,536,575 Emery May 5, 1925 2,096,006 Plummer Oct. 19, 1937 2,522,505 Ferris Sept. 19, 1950 

